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Thanks for the Video!
Don't do anything this curly head dude is on about. If you're fixing through the pan of the sheet, give your resignation to your employer and tell him or her you're dumb!
I just installed 11, 12' x 3' panels of galvalum on a "lean to" style patio cover. We have since had 2 significant rain storms with NO leaks at all. I installed my screws 100% ONLY on the FLAT portion of the steel. I used Teks #9 1" screws with the rubber washers and they grabbed good and firm into the wood frame with my driver torque set at its lowest torque. The panels I used overlay pretty good and are made of a pretty strong and rigid material "galvalum" I made sure to screw in the flat close to the overlay section, and it is buttoned up pretty snug. I think screwing through the high points through the contours of the ridge seems would be a bad approach. The screws really lock down tight against the smooth metal and pinches the flat steel tight against the wood frame without flexing and distorting the roofing or upsetting the alignment of the panels. No leaks.
ALWAYS PRE-DRILL the holes.
I just finished my first metal roof , using 36" standing seam panes of 28 gauge metal , with ribs 9 " apart . The manufacturers recommendation was to put screws in the top of the ridge . They supplied 2" screws with the same color as the roofing. I used 1100 screws to do one side of a 48' by 16' roof. Each panel required 64 screws at 15" spacing. My BIG MISTAKE was in not pre-drilling the holes while the panels were neatly stacked on the ground. This meant I had to mark , hammer punch , and drive in screws while kneeling on the roof with multiple tools in my hand , while trying not to slide. It took almost 1 minute per screw to do this and I had to build a jiffy wooden roof ladder to work on. The final six panels were pre-drilled , and vive la difference. I just walked along the holes and drove in the screws , taking only a few seconds per screw , and the panels were perfectly line up. Pre-drilling several panels at a time while stacked on the ground was easy and very time saving. ALWAYS PRE-DRILL .
I like how he's too cheap to buy the correct high temp metal rod boot for the chimney
Out of all the roofers here who are claiming the panel should be attached thru the rib vs thru the panel has any 1 of you attended 4 yrs trade school and earned a journeyman card in Roofing or architectural sheet metal ? the reason this metal roofing panel is not allowed to be attached thru the rib is because the roof panels move with thermal shock ,when the panels move any gap between the metal panel & the fastener will be exploited by expansion & contraction ,the expansion & contraction causes the washers to become lose 1st ,then the screw itself to back itself out ,with the panel screwed directly thru the metal laying flat on the deck there is no weak spot between the fastener and roof panel to be exploited by expansion & contraction.
As for the " Silicone " arguement " just know this ,every major manufacturer of asphalt roofing materials ,metal roofing materials ,EPDM and TPO, PVC etc in the USA specifies either Vulkem brand or Sika Flex ,some architects will allow Vulkem to be substituted with Quad brand caulking ,the 1 thing these caulking have in common is that all are Polyurethane caulk ,I challenge anybody here to go outside there house and peel the " 50 year " Silicone off their windows ,it will pull right off with ease ,silicone is such a terrible waterproofing agent it's not used in even 1 commercial & industrial building trade & architects put notes in bid packets that in no case will silicone be a substitute material in any waterproofing.
Polyurethane caulks are like roofing tar where once tooled in they adhere 100% to any surface ,and they can flex exactly like silicone, the only thing high temp silicone is ever specified for is on extremely hot vent pipes to caulk the pipe collar .
And do NOT use silicone caulking anyplace on your metal roof ,not even sandwiched between 2 pieces, silicone isn't allowed on any warrantied panel system ,for caulking use Vulkem preferably or Sika Flex 1-A ,or even Quad caulking from home depot is high quality ,the main thing is to on my use polyurethane caulking ,no architect specs silicone due to its terrible adhesion to any surface even if your lucky enough to find silicone primer to prime before caulking, and tool all caulking in with a caulking tool ,pity knife or even a spoon ,I've fixed thousands of roof leaks due to silicone and even quality caulks that weren't tooled in to make 100% adhesion to both surfaces ,caulk will bond to itself with little effort but not to panels, you can't just squirt it out of the gun & make a lap the polyurethane caulking must be tooled in and it will never leak.
Anyone know what type of shoes to wear on a metal roof or any other tips to keep from falling off one?
Jesus Christ. You put the screws on the RIB NOT the flat portion. This will help prevent the water that travels down the flat portion from infiltrating the portal of entry through the screw and leaking into the sub-roofing then finally into your home. Read the manufacturer's recommendations on installation. Do not listen to this guy.
In my younger days, a house with a tin roof meant you were either very old or dirt poor or both.
Oscar your a gherkin, first off metal roofs are not warranteed for anything under 4/12 pitch so pan or rib location is not as critical for fasteners (screws), water is not hanging around at that steep of an angle to leak past a panset screw. In any event metal roofs require a membrane of course under the metal as additional protection from minor seepages. I dont care how they do it down under and ive seen 165 year old C Panel roofs that have NO LEAKS here in the US. Good daaay.
Wow thats new putting the screw in the bottom of the pan. Never seen it done that way before.
OK, I see there is a lot of controversy regarding putting the screws on the rib or on the flat. Chris, the narrator, lives in Georgia, USA, and manufacturers in this part of the world recommend placing the screws in the flat next to the rib. So, there you have it!
question please, i've watched a few of your great videos but none talk about gutters. Do they slip behind the drip edge flashing?
you wouldnt get paid at the end of the job if you screwed up my roof like that,way to many screws and also in the wrong spot
Easy with the stink face. Its distracting.
Fuck you asshole. screws only go on top of the ridges, any idea how many botch jobs you've instigated with your bullshit?
Upper left of the image at 2:29 shows material badly distorted by what looks like overtightening.
Nice video…good learning hints.
i was a roofer for about 10 yrs. i put the screws through the ribs. i also installed foam backer or other insulation barriers. i used 2 1/4" metal screws with a poly washer. no leaks. and i know many of these people that I've roofed for. no leaks. he is right about the silicone and plenty of screws for flashing. still more than i use. those roofs i did are around 17-19 yrs old now.
To solve all the argument of where to put the screws?Go as manufacturer requires. Other wise put the screws on the ribs for less leakage.I always use 1×4 furring to install metal roofs on top of shingles. My first roofing job I was 17, I am 68 & still at it.May God bless.
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the regular Plumbing pipe should be done the same way as the HVAC pipe let's cruise anybody should know the less screws you have in a roof the less links you have in a roof that's just the way it goes let's penetrations with all them screws you are relying on nothing but a s*** ton of screws to keep out leaks how smart is that smarty
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